Gardening

Clivia

How I go about preparing my Clivia seeds (pictures to follow)

1. Should the seeds still be in the berries, they are removed using my fingers only. 

Why?: I am concerned that, should I use a sharp object, that I might damage the seeds, and result in bacterial or fungus infection of the seeds

2. The seeds are surrounded by a thin, slippery skin (membrane) that needs to be removed.  This is done by hand, too.

Why?: Removing this skin allows the seeds to be exposed to the moisture that would in turn allow it to start it's germination process

3. You should now sterilize or clean the seeds using any of the methods recommended in so many of the Clivia forums and articles on the net.  I use a weak (not scientifically measured approach) solution of a South African product called Domestos.  It is a sodium chloride based product, and is therefore in substance comparable to household bleach.

Why?:  Using a bleach based product, you are killing all traces of mold, fungus, bacterial type growth that could (and most probably will) destroy your seed if not kept in check.  Always be safe with your seed and sterilize everything that's going to be in contact with your seed.  Some seeds are darn expensive, and your germination success rate shall be dramatically impacted if you miss this step.

4. I now sterilize the container in which I am about to place the seed until it is germinated.  For this I have a manual spray bottle with the same mix of Domestos (or bleach) and I clean every part of the container with this.  I do NOT dry it off, but rather shake the excess solution off the container and lid.

Why?: See the answer under step 3 (three) above.  Keep things hygienically clean!  Your seeds' livelihood depend on this!  Drying the container might re-introduce unwanted stuff into the container, rendering it not sterile anymore.

5. Time to deal with the growing medium that you are going to place the seeds upon.  This is up to personal preference, and I prefer Coco peat (Coir Peat).  It is made from the husk of Coconut, and would resemble finely shredded coir (coir as you would use to line hanging baskets).  My second choice is Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss, although it seems that I am having quicker germination and better moisture consistency with the Coir Peat.  I soak the Coir peat in a solution of Bravo 720. I suppose you could also use Virikop wettable powder.

Why?: Bravo 720 prevents fungal and bacterial growth for gardening purposes. Virikop is specifically indicated for the prevention of (amongst others) seedling damping off.

6. The moist growing medium is now placed in the container and only slightly firmed down (don't compact it too much)

7. On top of the growing medium you now place the seeds that was treated as per the first steps of this procedure page.

8. Document and mark your containers, the seed that it contains, etc.  Keep track of things.

Why?: When you start breeding Clivia you need to be able to track your plants back all the way.  It will also help to know the different germination media, treatments, etc. and how it worked better (or not) compared to others, helping you into the future.

9. Now place the containers where it will be between 24 and 26 degrees Celsius.  (A lot of reference is being made about the top of a refrigerator, towards the back, where the war air from the grill rises up.  Other serious clivia growers go about constructing thermostatically controlled germinators, specifically for clivia seeds.

Why?: I suppose that the quicker your Clivia's germinate (weeks instead of months) the less they are prone to contracting some disease.  Also, the quicker they start growing, the quicker you'll get them to flowering age (3 years, instead of 3 years + some months!)

9. You now wait and be patient.

10. During this time you would be scrutinizing the many threads on www.cliviaforum.co.za, where you by now should be a registered user at no cost.  Well, that's what I would do.

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Page last updated on

13 August 2010